Updates to Strike Plans

Strike Materials List

6mm gaboon ply (8ft x 4ft sheets) 10 sheets

2in x 1in 25m
11/2in x 1in 40m
1in x 1in 10m
5in x 1in 3m or laminate from 2in x 1in
3in x 2in kingpost 1.3m

Epoxy resin 10kgs min 200g glass cloth 2kgs min
Screws 3/4in counter sunk stainless steel 1000 (or use barbed ring nails)
Filler etc as required
Scrap timber for frame No allowance for waste Timber sizes nominal planed all round (PAR) use softwood, eg Douglas, fir, Sitka spruce etc

The outboard bracket sketch is HERE, see photo below. A 2hp outboard is recommended, 3hp max.

The beam bolt plate is shown below.

The trampoline fastening is shown below

Note pocket at front end. Inner edge has a sleeve with 18mm (3/4in) dia aluminium tube inside. Lash this to the hull with lashings at about 300mm (12in) spacing. Either use eyelets or simply drill through the timber. Inner edge tramp should line up with beam bolts.

The removable cabin is made after completing the boat and is made to suit your boat. See sketch HERE and typical hatch below.

To simplify raising the mast, chainplates can be added to the windscreen corners. Note these may need to be removable if cabin is fitted. Top hole for shackle to line up with mast step pivot.

Embarrassing note: I initially fitted mine in the wrong place, later they were moved forward, see photo below.

A method of reefing is recommended. There are two options. First, and recommended, is to have reef points installed about 1m (3ft) above the boom or as convenient. The second is simply to "roller reef" the mainsail by rolling it round the boom. Note this will probably mean lowering the sail completely first, but is obviously the easiest method if you rarely sail in bad weather. A roller reefing/furling jib is also recommended.

If the cabin is not fitted you will need a simple boom tent (approx 8ft x 6ft) to stop rain water filling the cockpit if the boat is left afloat.

To attach the aft corners we screwed small eyelets to the outriggers

It maybe that we have sailed our own Strike too much in the rain, but I have now decided that a longer windscreen is a more practical, comfortable arrangement for those not using the removable cabin. See sketch HERE. Of course the removable cabin can still be fitted, but the dimensions will have to be modified to suit the longer windscreen.

The photo below shows wire luffed screecher, mainsail downhaul and kicking strap details. Note mast rotation spanner can be forward or aft of mast. Blue lines are spanner rotation lines to eyelets on window joints, while vertical blue lines are temporary stays (left slack when sailing) to assist mast raising. Kicking strap only needs to be tight when offwind (otherwise mast rotation is difficult).

The optional screecher is for experienced sailors only. Luff 7.5m, leech 6.5m, foot 4.6m, area 15sqm. All sizes are approx, depends on own mast. It is fitted to a bowsprit which is two 11/2in (37mm) dia aluminium tubes 1.8m total length. Fit each side of forestay fitting, so tubes are slightly bent - which helps hold them stiff. Attached on the inner end by a horizontal through bolt which goes through a large eyelet bolted to a deck pad. Note blue rubber pad to stop chafe. Outer end is bolted together with a 2in x 6mm x 4in long (50mm x 6mm x 100mm) aluminium plate which takes dolphin striker (below) and screecher furling drum (above)

3mm (1/8in) wire dolphin striker is taken to a chainplate bolted through solid stem just above WL. Screecher furling drum at bottom and swivel at top to suit a beach cat screecher. Halyard take off at mast head.

Screecher halyard is pulled to masthead. Then lower end is tightened by rope through block at bowsprit end to convenient cleat by windscreen (cleat shown on right with thick rope). Furling line to small cleat as required (above beam). Screecher is sheeted to small swivel blocks initially lashed mid way along aft beam. Adjust position to suit own rig after trial sails. (Because the boat uses a variety of beach cats for rig and outriggers you have to expect a degree of experimentation to get the boat optimised.)

NOTE: If using the cabin or if sailing in Category C (coastal) rather than Cat D (sheltered water) then "waterstays" are recommended to help stiffen the beams. If using Quattro hulls then make both the fore and aft beams from the same section and fit both vertically to maximise stiffness. See sketch HERE. Note, you may be able to use the existing dolphin striker fitting on the front beams.

The bottom of Bulkhead 1 needs trimming off square to suit the keel stringer. It probably isn't that clear from the drawings, but the building manual sheet 2, top photo, shows it well.