Richard and Jetti's Land Trips in Central America
Trip 1 - Guatemala
Although I am trying to work on new designs this summer, it is very hot on the boat (usually it's near 100 deg F, even with 3 big fans running continuously) and so to escape the heat and to let the drawings gestate, we have been taking time off to explore inland Central America.
Jetti and I now have a good system going. When at sea, I plan the route and study the tide times and harbour information. On land, it's Jetti's job to work out the best places to visit, check out bus times and reserve rooms in suitable hotels. Notice the word hotel; it's not one I often use as I can't afford hotels in the UK, but in Guatemala they are cheap - 5US (3GBP) a night is not uncommon. Usually though, we go a bit more upmarket, but still have never paid more than 60US (35GBP) for a double room.
When travelling inland, we normally use public transport. This in itself is an experience - and not one for the faint hearted. So called "chicken buses" (photo above) are the norm. They are usually old American school buses from the 1950-60's. Why are they called chicken buses? Well, that's for two reasons. First, because their drivers like to play "chicken" with other drivers on the road, so it's best not to look when the driver overtakes on blind hairpin bends! The second is because the buses don't just take human passengers. I once spent an hour crowded in the back of a bus sharing a seat with a woman with two live chickens dangling on her arm. Buses are usually packed. I counted 50 seats on one bus that had a sign saying "max 84 passengers". I think they were all on board.
But despite these drawbacks we use the buses as they are a very cheap way to travel and to meet local people. We can travel all day for 5US (3GBP) while at every terminus there are lots of enthusiastic helpers to carry our bags and ensure we get on the right bus. All in all, it's a life enriching experience.
Our first trip took us on a 6 hour ride to Antigua (note, the "U" is pronounced, unlike the Caribbean island of the same name), the old colonial capital of Guatemala, and built on a plain below the Volcan Agua. The photo shows the great view we had of it from our hotel room.
We spent most of our time walking the cobbled streets or sitting in the park, people watching - that is when we weren't eating at one of the numerous restaurants. Antigua was about the only place in Guatemala where we have been pestered by locals trying to sell us souvenirs. Normally we are left well alone, which makes a pleasant change after the West Indies.
An earthquake in 1773 destroyed much of the town, including the cathedral, which is why the capital was moved to Guatemala City. The old town remains though, and has been much restored in recent years. It's now a World Heritage Site and so is a real tourist "must see." The cathedral looked impressive from the front, as the left picture below shows, but on walking inside it all seemed very small. It wasn't until we walked round the back and saw the remains of the main nave that we realized what an impressive building it must have been when first built. Restoration began in the 1960's, but was dealt a blow by another earthquake in 1973 which demolished yet more of the building.
But Antigua's most striking colonial church is the Church of La Merced. Originally built in 1548 it was also destroyed by the 1773 earthquake. However, it was rebuilt in the 1850's complete with a front facade covered with an amazingly intricate design of carvings and statues.
We also visited the Convent Las Capuchinas built in 1736 for nuns from Madrid, again being slowly restored. We spent some time there as the gardens were a peaceful haven from the bustle of the town.
Our two nights in Antigua were followed by a trip up through the lush green hills to the village of Chichicastenango. We arrived just as the priests were blessing the shops and restaurants, for it was the feast of Corpus Christi.
However, we had really come to Chichi to see its famous Sunday market. We found crowds of locals, with all the women wearing the traditional brightly coloured woven Mayan dresses. Most of the market now caters to tourists. Had we got there at dawn though, we could have joined the locals and bought chickens, vegetables, beans and rice. Instead we bought colourful fabrics for new cushion covers for Eclipse's saloon.
When we tired of shopping, an hour's bus trip took us to Lake Atitlan, a beautiful lake fringed by three volcanoes, thus looking something like a Swiss lake without the snow or cowbells. After a 20 minute boat trip, we arrived at the amazing hotel Casa del Mondo. Perched on the side of a cliff, it was built as a retirement home by an ex-pat American who then decided to turn it into a hotel. Again our room looked out onto a near perfectly shaped volcano.
Although it was much cooler higher up (5000ft), we just sat and looked at the view, as we found the hills were too steep for sailors to climb. It seemed incredible that the locals farmed the near vertical fields. As in most of Central America, it all has to be done by hand. Partly because most farmers are too poor to own tractors, but mainly because it is impossible for machines or even horses to reach the fields. But at least we now know where pineapples come from!
We had planned to stay two nights but stayed three. Had there been access to the sea, we would have stayed forever. So much so, that we are now very tempted to visit Lake Nicaragua, which is indeed accessible by sea. But that's for another time. Now it was back to the boat for some more drawing and writing.
