Updates to Plans
Although we spent a great deal of time and effort in making our plans available in electronic format unfortunately a few errors crept in.
So please use this page to update and correct the download drawings. Some of the errors we have noticed ourselves, but please let us know of any more so that we can update this page and make the download drawings as accurate as possible.
As you will see elsewhere, the study plans come with a link to webpages that include the Materials List, photographs, owners reports etc. If you find that clicking on the link doesn't get you the pages you want then I suggest you copy and paste the link into your browser.
The normal method of marking out plywood bulkheads using full size patterns is to lay the pattern on the plywood. Then "prick though" the pattern with a nail or bradawl at say 1in or 30mm spacing. Remove pattern and "join the dots"
Some of the Materials Lists still suggest using resorcinol glue. However this glue is now outdated. Now I recommend using epoxy throughout, but you can use polyurethene glue for strip planking and also for non structural or lightly loaded above water joints. Always use epoxy below the WL.
The kick up rudder system I use on many of my boats works very well. However the blocks need to be carefully made for best results.
They do not want to be tight in the slot or they might jam (which is why it is probably not a good idea to use solid unsheathed wood as it can swell if the rudders are left down for long periods). But neither do they want to be loose as then there will be a very annoying rattle when at anchor.
So what I usually do is make the block as snug a fit as possible and then add a vertical bead of Sikaflex or 5200 to the sides of the block. Not only does this act as a fill-in if the block is too narrow, but also acts as a soft bumper and reduces any banging noise.
Furthermore the block should extend behind the transom at least 50mm so that when you tighten the downhaul rope it pushes the block forwards.
While your hull is still upside down you should mark the waterline all round. The boat is already set up square, if you don't do it now you'll find it much harder to square the boat up once you've turned it over. You can use a laser level or the more traditional watertube
Shadow Bulkhead dimensions Bhd 4 sheer height is 684 (not 634) Bhd 6 aft deck height above gunwale is 89 (not 97)
Skua Tillers should be 700, not 480 long Rudders can be 150mm shorter. Glass layup can be 600g biaxial on each side of the strip cedar.
Gypsy Daggerboard The total length of the board is 3050mm and the part below the waterline is 1350mm
Eclipse On the lines plan the bow height should be from WL1, not WL2. (The arrow is wrong, not the dimension)
Flica Click HERE to see a new mastbeam arrangement
Just want to thank you for the cabin plans you put on the web. I have used ideas from those plans and the open Strike cabin to build a cuddy to suit me and my wife for our Strider - a suitable shelter for daysailing which can easily be converted with a tarpaulin (or in the future something more sophisticated) into a night time cabin. It looks much better than I hoped and as soon as I get it on the water again I will be able to find out what it is like in practice - but I am confident it will fulfill my needs. all the best and thanks again John Furneaux of Strider 37